Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Starting from Estonia

Long time no write. I know. I've been busy... busy exploring more of Europe. I really love Europe, but I sure found it expensive after living on meagre teacher wages of late.

So I'll get started where I left off at the end of June... midsummer to be exact. After an all-nighter (which was weird since it never really got dark) in Helsinki with an American and some truly hospitable Finns, I hopped a Ferry to Tallinn, the capital city of Estonia.
Instantly charmed, I a spent a couple of days exploring the old town.

It was fun to get lost in the narrow, winding, cobbled streets. With less posh and glam of the Western European cities, Tallin, with it's 14th Century churches, is enchanting. It was also a pleasure to have customer service with a smile again, rather than a scowl.

Now an EU country, although they haven't changed from 'kroons' to 'euros' yet, it wasn't as cheap as I had thought it might be. Unfortunately, my newly published guidebook was completely out of sync with the true costs.



The tower walls have only one side intact, but a few other towers still form the outline of the old town.

Further exploring led me to Kuressaare on the island of Saaremaa. Upon arrival at the bus depot, it seemed I was the sole backpacker in on the deserted streets. Luckily, I bumped into Kristina, a Finnish migrant, who was looking for weary travelers arriving after the close of the Tourist Information office. She had a spare flat to rent. I was pleasantly surprised with the zen-decorated apartment and all the little creature comforts it offered inside... a great place to unwind.

Kristina, who is 61, independent, and beautiful, is a truly inspirational woman. I can't believe I didn't take her photo. At the moment, one of her jobs is a gym trainer at one of the resorts. She took me through an amazing work-out, which took me two weeks to recover from. Then she booked me the best massage of my life. Estonia is famous their therapeutic spas.
This majestic castle and moat make it easy to imagine this place as it was 500 years ago.
The island was off limits during the soviet era since it had a rocket base station and radar system so it limited industrial development. Now it's a charming, rural get-away for city dwellers. .. and me.

Wildflowers are everywhere. They seem to have been intentionally put around the borders of the grain fields and completely cover some grassy areas.



I rented a car to tour around, but it would be a great place to bicycle. Almost all the roads are paved, it's flat, and the signage is clear as a sunny day (not that I saw many of those this summer), with directions to every landmark possible. There were old wooden windmills, stone churches, meteor craters, giant beer mugs and 'cliffs'. The cliffs weren't so impressive... even I could dive off them, but for this flat, flat land I guess they thought it was worth a toot. It's amazing how vastly different this former soviet country is to another I know. Truly progressive and very tourist-friendly.
One night I camped on a beach - the camping is free, complete with firewood. Most spots were completely empty (maybe due to the rain??). The next night I slept in a hostel I found a few miles away because I was afraid camping alone, even though it barely got dark. This was taken around 2 AM. Can you see my swans?


More wildflowers... because they're pretty.




3 Comments:

At Thursday, August 09, 2007 8:57:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I can see by your pictures that Estonia was every bit as nice as you said. It looks like where I imagine fairy tales are set!
Good to have you blogging again!
Guess I better get at it before you pass me in Scotland.

 
At Friday, August 10, 2007 2:56:00 AM, Blogger Ilsa said...

yep, Scotland's next!

 
At Sunday, August 12, 2007 11:36:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Happy to have you back on the blog! I am so happy that there are still places in Europe like this. It really does make Canada seem like a baby when you talk about 500 year old towers etc.
Can't wait to see more!
Your new niece is very adorable!!
Mom

 

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