Croatia Chronicles
One of the few plans I had for my European adventure was to meet my friends in Croatia to go camping. I carried my sleeping bag in my backpack all summer specifically with this in mind. Until recently, I only thought of Croatia in terms of the war and genoicide of the early 90's. Lately it has been marketed months as a hot spot with beautiful beaches and great food. I had to go.Logistics had not been worked out yet but those are minor details. Getting to Croatia can't be any more difficult than any other country. Afterall I had taken planes, trains, and automobiles (even boats) all over Europe. Piece of cake!
I left a few days earlier than we planned to meet because I wanted some r'nr beach time. I wasn't sure where exactly to head but I would read my Lonely Planet guide on the train from Ljubljana toward a port near the border for guidance.
The port of Koper which is close to borders of Croatia and Italy, but still in Slovenia, left me at a bus stop. Literally, a bus stop. No hotels, no stores, no one who spoke English. Nada. Lonely Planet had also failed me with directions so I did what seemed most logical. I chose a bus that was going to the only place I could pronounce - Trieste. The thought of Italian food was also appealing plus it was only 12 km away. Turned that, due to border crossing it took several hours to arrive.
Trieste used to be a main port and I was sure I could find a nice boat trip that could take me to a paradise I had envisioned. In reality there is not much going on beside a few beautiful buildings and rich tourists. Almost everything closes down in Italy on the weekends so it took me time to discover that I would have to actually go to Croatia for a Croatian beach holiday. I did manage to find a local pub and met some crazy Italians for a night of fun so all was not a waste.
The next day's bus took me back to Slovenia and then Croatia in a matter of two hours, ending up in Rijeka (even though its only 20 kms). I quickly found an agent who told me a Catamaran could get me to one of 1100 islands in a matter of hours so I found a destination that I could pronounce... Rab.
Lovely Rab on the Adriatic Sea, containing remnants of 1st and 2nd Century settlements, reminded me a bit of Greece but greener. I first spotted its hill top medieval city and then a tourist agency which was actually open. I could feel my luck changing for the better. The lady there insisted there was only one place to stay (even though other agents in Rijeka told me accomodations would be plentiful since its the end of the summer). At 8pm you can't be too fussy when you don't know where you're going to sleep so I went ahead and waited for owner of the private residence to come and pick me up.
I was delighted to see the place run by Alen and his father. They had 9 guestrooms and a
a restaurant with nice family atmosphere, and only a 10 minute drive from town to pretty much the middle of nowhere. It only dawned on me a couple of hours later that it might be difficult to find my beach without transportation.
This sunset view is a short walk from where I stayed.The next day it poured rain so I hung out in the middle of nowhere and read the Croatian newspapers. In the evening I ventured out to the quaint little town and hung out later in Alen's disco which he owns with his girlfriend, who, coincidentally, works in the tourist office!
The following day was overcast but no rain. Halleluiah!! After an early start, a well-planned bus ride, and several kilometres of walking (mostly through bush), I finally found my own private cove. I spent what was left of the day on the beach and swimming in the fresh, clear waters.
It was great! I knew that getting back would be another adventure of its own but for the time being I had this little piece of paradise all to myself.
My almost unobstructed view, aside from these naked Europeans in the zodiac. Don't get me wrong. I am not a prude and enjoy going topless on the beach when appropriate but for pete's sake, do I need to see this? Aside from polluting my view, they should really consider the hygienic complexities of bare butts in a rental boat.
Back at the farm that evening I came across Geoff and Joanne who were just discovering (sooner than I) that they had been bamboozled into the middle of nowhere too. They had had a couple of crazy days and were spent so I talked them into staying the night with me and we had a great dinner of prosciutto & risotto stuffed Calamari. It was delicious, as was the company and the Croatian wine.
Some days just don't end. Later that night - no, the next morning - uh, not sure but it was still dark... I found myself on a boat with Alen and the cook. We went to his friends' party. I'll spare you the details but Twilight Zone comes to mind. Unfortunatly, I missed the 6 am ferry departure off the island. Fortunately, I escaped the fishing trip that Alen and his friends wanted me to partake.
Alen drinking homemade wine and preparing himself for a night of debauchery.
Me and the cook - his food is good but should one trust a cook with no teeth?
Eventually I did find my way off that bloody island and onto another island... a route to lead me closer to home. I had given up on the camping idea by then due to all the rain and my inability to coordinate upcoming days (by this point I was incapable of making any more 'logical' decisions). Plus, I had a return ticket home from London if I so wanted the challenge of getting there. I decided to take it.
Basque, on Krk Ilsand, seemed to be mostly a stopping point on way to or from the airport but the pebbled beach in was filled with Italians in speedos and crazy kids running wild. Great people watching but not sure why they enjoy laying there like that... so crowded and no sand... their leathery skin getting further sun damaged (I wished for rain so they would take cover).
I did manage to find a heart-pumping, scenic hike to a cemetary and small church, showing glorious views of Croatia's deep, blue sea.
Ilsa recommends but next time I'll take George Clooney's yacht... oh, and George, too.
posted by Ilsa @ Tuesday, August 29, 2006
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