Ilsa Around The World

The Holy Land

Israel is definitely the most interesting place I have ever seen. I am still trying to get my head around everything. Before I share my thoughts on this crazy place, let me paint a picture of the last few days. The first big hurdle for me was patience.

Day one of tour started with a prayer in the bus to Old Jerusalem, prior to a stop at the Ascension Mosque, built by Christians in 1 AD but currently owned by Muslims (we must pay to go inside but they give you olive branches). We viewed a footprint encased in glass apparently left by Jesus prior to the his ascension in heaven. I can't see it - can you? Everyone kissed it and took photos of themselves in front of it. Then we prayed. A short walk later and we were at Dominus Flevit, the sanctuary where Jesus wept over the city of Jerusalem. More praying and then we had a mass. I forgot it was Sunday - of course its a Catholic tour so that made sense. Besides, going to church has always been okay and the Lord knows its been a while since I had communion. Its all in Spanish so I don't understand everything (I mean anything) but in some ways its nice because I can step back and tune out. No one seems to mind.

Day one continuing... NOON - we went for lunch, prayed, and then to the Pool of Bethesda, one of only three archeological sites here that existed during Jesus' life then to a tomb?? My memory is going. Later we were at the place where Judas betrayed Jesus and Jesus was convicted. Then we carried a cross doing the exact walk (Way of the Cross) and prayed at the marked stations of the cross. Some men hissed at us and the shopkeepers tried to get us to buy their stuff and tourists took photos of us. There was one part where we had to be silent (Halleluhia) due to respect of other 4 religions who share the church where we found the tomb of Christ. It was pretty cool to know we were in these places I know from many years of catechism and church (thanks Mom) but also hard to grasp since it is so different than what I had established in my imagination.

The surreal part of this tour so far is actually being surrounded by these very different cultures/religions that are so active and obvious. Old Jerusalem has definitive quarters for Jews, Christians, Muslims, etc but they are all intertwined and its hard to believe they have gotten along as well as they do and no wonder there are always wars.

Aaron our tour guide who is Jewish is from Haifa - he and his family are spread out all over Israel, staying with friends and relative now due to the current situation. He can't get the sound of the sirens out of his head. It's been 20 years since he heard them when he was a small boy. He supports his leader 100% but doesn't really think the situation will ever get better.

In contrast, the guide we had today in Bethlehem is Catholic (Aaron isn't allowed here). He said nothing will ever get better and he's indifferent about his Prime Minister's actions. Bethlehem has 35% Christian, the rest Muslim, down from 90% Christian 20 years ago. Everyone is leaving because of the religious tensions.

Day 2 in Jerusalem, we went to the Dormition Abbey in the Zion Monastery and saw the crypt where Mary died (or just slept, depending on Orthadox or not) and ascended to heaven. We had mass there (not just Sundays afterall). It was truly was a peaceful place with a lovely garden and befitted the Virgin Mary. The coolest part of yesterday was the location of the Last Supper. Seriously, the actual place still exists. Again the place is shared by many religions so we weren't allowed to have mass there (although that didn't stop a few prayers). It was well-perserved with less decorations than the other places. Later we went to a church build by Emporer Constantine that had in mosaics on the walls 'Our Father' in every language.

Day 3 Today we're in Bethlehem and it's my favourite place so far. To our advantage, the war has kept tourists away and we were the only group going through the Nativity grotto when they usually have over 100 groups. We are also the only guests staying at the hotel right next door to the grotto. It was really cool to imagine Mary, Joseph, and baby Jesus in the area where they might have been over 2000 years ago; however, I am finding it really difficult to be spiritual when everyone is taking photos and kissing the area, etc. It's testing my patience. I will try harder tomorrow to find quiet times.

We also checked out the Milk Grotto where Mary was supposed to have stayed breastfeeding baby Jesus. There are many theories on why they stayed there but apparently she caused milk from the heavens to pour out there, leaving white powder substance in the cave. People with fertility problems go there to there to buy white powder to drink with milk or water then pray a traditional prayer to Mary to give them a child. There are testomonies framed all over the walls and photos of their miracle babies. I tried to get the guide to tell me what the white powder in the cave actually is but I only got the response of pure faith and no answer. I think it's limestone but maybe I'll get my brother the geophysist guy to investigate for me. I bought some anyway - just in case. Anyone want some?

Shepherds Fields was the last location of the day - there's a cave where the Shepherds kept their flocks at night and they placed stones in front every night so that they couldn't get out and one Shepherd stayed inside with only a little hole to let others in and out. This place is also dedicated to the shepherds who saw the angel 'Gloria in excelsis deo'. A Catholic church funded by a Canadian keeps the place going.

The atmosphere is much nicer here than in Jerusalem so we will stay another night and enjoy our time. The hotels clerks are much friendlier and helpful, as a matter of fact I went to one of their homes to get some laundry detergent. I did get some very strange looks in the town though when I was following him into stores. I think I wasn't covered up enough.

Its hard to believe there is a war going on in this country - if it weren't for CNN and asking locals I wouldn't know it. The vendors are desperate and constantly surrounding us. The whole city relies on tourism so hopefully the war will end soon for their sake and everyone else directly and indirectly affected by it. Pray for that, will ya?

The Mexicans are warm and wonderful to be around. They don't mind that I don't speak Spanish and converse with me anyway. Luly and her three cousins speak English so I get them to translate if necessary. It's also great the the official language of Israel is English so where there is writing, I usually find it. Ironic that I'm finally in an English-speaking country yet with people who I don't understand. I love a challenge!

Sorry no photos as problems posting right now but will put them up when I can.

posted by Ilsa @ Tuesday, July 25, 2006